Suriname

Suriname is a small independent country on the northern coast of South America - sandwiched in between Guyana and French Guiana, with Brazil bordering it to the south. It’s just slightly larger than the state of Georgia or the country of Greece. It’s a former Dutch colony and is just one of three sovereign countries in the world having Dutch as an official language. It has a highly diverse population of about 625,000 with most living within a hundred kilometers of the Atlantic coast. Almost half live in the capital city of Paramaribo - there isn’t any other city in Suriname of any significant size.

As a Canadian, Suriname doesn’t typically come up much when discussing travel destinations, though I think it deserves far more attention than it gets, especially as an ecotourism destination. As a former Dutch colony, the country does receive a fair number of visitors from the Netherlands. But while I was there over two weeks in April 2025, I only met two other travelers from North America. For me part of the appeal to Suriname is its relative anonymity. It’s nice to visit a place that doesn’t have a lot of preconceived expectations with greater opportunities to surprise. I’ll also add that Suriname is not going to be your top choice if you are looking for a blue water beach or golfing vacation (although there is one 9 hole golf course in Paramaribo!)

You can also hear about my travels to Suriname in episode #953 of the Amateur Traveler Podcast, or click on the link below to listen to the podcast direct from this site:
Travel to Suriname - Amateur Traveler Episode 953 I can definitely say that I found Suriname to be an amazing place to visit, especially for its untouched nature and its diverse population. Over 95% of the country is covered by rainforest, the highest proportion of any country in the world. It has a remote interior with no major roads heading south to the border with Brazil. The only way to reach eco tourist destinations in the deep interior is by boat or more realistically by flying in. However, there are definitely some worthwhile nature destinations located within driving distance of Paramaribo. You’ll see an amazing variety of wildlife, with an especially large variety of birds - including macaws, parrots, toucans, kingfishers and many herons and egrets. But I saw so much more than birds - including sloths, monkeys, tapirs, tortoises, caiman, colourful butterflies, poison dart frogs, big tarantulas, interesting rainforest insects. I posted close to a hundred wildlife photos on my Instagram account. 











The cultural diversity of Suriname is another draw. I was especially intrigued by the Maroon community in Suriname. The Maroons are descendants of former slaves who escaped from plantations as far back as 350 years ago. It’s one of the few Maroon populations in the world that has not been largely assimilated. While they are increasingly influenced by outside forces, they seem to have retained a strong identity with African influences yet anchored in a unique culture that has evolved over the centuries in relative isolation deep in the rainforest of Suriname. To this day, many of the Maroon communities have no road access and can only be reached by boat. 

Suriname gained its independence from the Netherlands in 1975, and has evolved considerably since then. It’s diverse communities include indigenous peoples, East Indian, Javanese, Chinese, Dutch and the aforementioned Maroons. The 1976 Suriname film Wan Pipel (One People) provides an insight to a young independent country trying to come to terms with this diversity. You’ll see this diversity most visibly in the varying religious structures while driving through the city. It seems these communities remain somewhat insular, yet are able to interact peacefully with other communities. Perhaps this was most evident when the large synagogue and mosque being neighbors in downtown Paramaribo. 

There is lots to see in Paramaribo with its historic Dutch influenced architecture now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are also interesting sites that can easily be reached during day trips from Paramaribo. For nature, there is the Peperpot Nature Park, Green Heritage Fund Sloth Sanctuary, Neotropical Butterfly Park and dolphin and sea turtle tours. Or you can take a step back in time with a visit to one of the old plantations and learn about the daunting slavery past. Fort Nieuw Amsterdam provides more lessons on the history of Suriname’s colonial past. 

With the recent discovery of oil offshore, I expect the country is going to continue to evolve. I met employees of the big French company Total who think the country will double in population over the next ten years. I suspect this will increase tourism to the country, so now may be a good time to visit before tourism really takes off. 


Getting Around








I spent two weeks in Suriname and could have happily extended it longer. But if you are on a tight timeline, you could probably see a few highlights in a week, though I’d suggest trying to stay at least for ten days. I say this in part because you’ll need to devote full travel days to reach internal destinations and another day for the return trip. 

Normally when I travel I’ll rent a car and usually do a loop trip through the country. But Suriname isn’t really set up that way. While independent travel is possible, it’s quite a bit easier and likely cheaper to take tours. In my case I set up separate tours through Orange Travel for each destination I wanted to visit. Orange and the handful of other travel agencies in Suriname tend to offer a menu of tours you can take, and scanning through their tour options is a good way to supplement your planning. I can vouch for Orange Travel - I took three tours through them and everything went according to plan. 

The other important point is most tours start and end in Paramaribo. So you’ll find yourself repeatedly driving out to a remote destination only to return back to Paramaribo before your next tour starts. For this reason you may want to plan some activities around Paramaribo for those shoulder days between excursions. I’ll provide two separate maps below showing some of the more popular destinations around Suriname, and another with destinations more locally around Paramaribo. For a more in depth look at destinations to help with planning, I highly recommend downloading the Brandt Guide to Suriname. I used it for my own planning, and it’s very thorough and easy to read. 

I’ll also mention that I flew in on Surinam Airways Miami flight. It makes a quick stop in Guyana before heading on to Suriname. It was tempting to stop over and see some of Guyana, however I tend to focus my time in one destination so as not to spread myself too thin. The plane lands at the Johan Adolf Pengel International Airport (PBM) which is about an hour’s drive south of Paramaribo. 


When to Visit

Guide books will suggest the best time to visit Suriname is during the dry season between February to April and August to November. I visited during mid- April and the weather was favourable. It did rain a few times, but it tended to come down in short heavy downpours and often the sun would be out again within a couple hours. Just be aware that if you are flying into a remote lodge on one of the smaller planes, flight delays can be more common due to weather. So it’s best to leave a shoulder day after your return flight in case of delays getting out of the rainforest. 

One limitation to travel during the rainy season is few other tourists are likely to venture there, so some resorts will simply shut down. Even during my visit in mid-April, bookings for some sites were fairly low which limited some of the tours I could take. I had originally planned to stay at Danpaati Resort along the Suriname River, but they did not have any bookings during the window I planned to visit. So Orange set me up with a visit to Anaula Nature Resort instead which turned out to be an amazing visit regardless. 

I did get a few mosquito bites during my visit, and you’ll also need to be on the lookout for ticks especially in the interior. I used bug spray only occasionally as I didn’t find them to be that bad. During rainy season I understand you’ll likely experience more mosquitos. I did visit a travel doctor before leaving Canada and they suggested taking malaria meds for some interior destinations. There was no need for a yellow fever vaccination, though I already had one from previous trips to South America. I would suggest consulting with a travel doctor as things can change based on the timing of your stay and specific destinations. 


Destinations


I’ll summarize the key destinations in Suriname under three headings: 

  • Remote Destinations - requiring a day trip from Paramaribo to reach
  • Near Paramaribo - attractions located within an hour of Paramaribo
  • Central Paramaribo - sites clustered in central Paramaribo


Please don’t take this as a comprehensive guide to Suriname. There is certainly more to see. But I do think I’ve included some of the more popular destinations, especially for those interested in nature and wildlife. As I mentioned previously, the Bradt Guide is a more in depth guide that I would recommend reading and downloading onto your mobile device so you can easily access it while traveling. 


Remote Destinations



Remote Nature Lodge Stay











I highly recommend travelling to one of the more remote nature lodges in the interior. The most remote lodges can only be reached by flying in on a smaller plane, with Kabalebo and Paloemeu being more common options. These remote lodges deep in the interior allow you to really immerse yourself in pristine nature. There are also some lodges reachable by road that are popular, including Brownsberg Nature Park and Voltzberg. They are a little closer to Paramaribo but still allow you to experience pristine nature.

I chose to fly into Kabalebo Nature Resort for three nights, and can highly recommend a visit here! You will fly out of the domestic airport on a Gum Air flight, my plane was about a twelve seater. We departed in rain but it was clear when we arrived at Kabalebo and touched down on the grass runway. The flight was quite smooth including the landing.

There were two groups of 7 guests staying at the time I visited, though the resort certainly has capacity to support more. Each group was supported by two guides. Many of the staff here including our Guides appeared to be of indigenous descent. 

The lodge is literally located in the “middle of nowhere”. There were no other villages nearby and the few other people we saw along the river were either guests or employees of Kabalebo. Even though the lodge is not technically in a National Park, it may as well have been. You are surrounded by pure nature here, with lots of wildlife. We went on excursions along the river and its smaller tributaries each day, typically with either a waterfall or hiking path as the destination. The visit to Moi Moi Waterfall (meaning beautiful in Dutch) was especially nice. 











We saw and heard more birds than I can name, with the macaws, parrots, kingfishers and screaming piha being my favourites. The Harpy Eagle is somewhat common here, though I didn’t see one during my visit. We saw monkeys - including Spider, Squirrel, Brown Capuchin and Howler. The fan favourite though was the semi-tame momma and baby tapirs that came by for a visit and snack each evening. We were even able to pet the baby tapir. I was amazed by the colourful poison dart frogs we saw - the dyeing poison dart and three-striped poison frogs. Our guide even picked up the poison dart frog, but not something I would necessarily recommend! We saw plenty more, including capybara, agouti, bats, tree frogs, butterflies & moths, tarantulas, tortoises, scorpions, interesting insects, river crabs and lizards. Jaguars are also seen here on occasion. We also saw huge rainforest trees and many bright flowers. Our head guide Terrel also explained how many of the rainforest plants are used by the indigenous peoples. We visited the site where they were constructed a new river canoe and learned about the boat building process. 

To get a better sense of what I saw you can view close to a hundred wildlife photos on my Instagram account (@mikeupowers). My one regret was not investing in binoculars or wildlife photography equipment for this trip. It’s difficult to get good wildlife photos without good gear, although I did manage to capture a few decent photos and videos with my iPhone. Fortunately a couple fellow travelers with better camera equipment sent me a bunch of bird photos which are extremely difficult to capture without a telescopic lens. 

You’ll have to budget more for a visit to Kabalebo ($1,235 USD for 4 days/3 nights includes flight, accommodation, meals and guided excursions), but I do think it’s worth it. It was simply an amazing visit. It’s not every day you have a chance to visit a place as pristine and isolated as Kabalebo. The staff and guides were super friendly, and my room in the most basic category (main lodge) was very comfortable. The food was tasty with a bit of a reliance on chick and rice (seems common at all the lodges I stayed at in Suriname). 


Suriname River











Also very high on my list of must see destinations is a trip to experience Maroon culture. The most popular destination for this is along the Suriname River just south of Antjoni. Typically you’ll be picked up at your resort in Paramaribo and driven three hours by minibus to Antjoni where you transfer to a powered dugout canoe for the ride to the lodge. In my case it was about an hour long boat ride to Anaula Nature Resort. Danpaati Resort is another popular destination here, and likely closer to a two hour boat ride. There are many other lodges along the river here and it would be possible to travel independently to one of the lodges. But I found it much easier to simply book the all inclusive excursion through Orange Travel. 

While you’ll find lots of nature and wildlife along the Suriname River, it’s not quite as pristine as the more remote destinations I mentioned above. But you absolutely will see lots of wildlife here, especially birds. 

But what made Anaula especially interesting was its connection to the Maroon culture. The Maroons are descended from slaves who escaped from plantations as far back as 350 years ago, and fled to the remote interior. About 20,000 Saramakan maroons live in a series of villages stretching along the Suriname River. To this day the communities are fairly isolated and only accessible by boat, and have retained a traditional way of life. Our primary Guide Alberto along with most of the resort’s staff were Saramakan. Alberto grew up on the river and shared first hand stories and insights about his community, though he also completed his formal education in Paramaribo. 

The highlight was a visit to the Saramakan Maroon community of Aurora. We learned so much more by touring the village with Alberto, and I would highly recommend joining a guided tour if visiting one of the villages. We stopped by a home owned by Alberto’s grandfather. It’s not uncommon for men here to have multiple wives, including his grandfather who had 53 children! The Saramakan are typically made up of a clan of matrilineal descendants from an original band of escaped slaves (approx 2,500 people in Aurora). The clan consists of several lineages descended from more recent ancestors (there are 8 main families in Aurora). 











Women will maintain a home in their ancestral village, and usually have a home in their husband’s village. They have primary responsibility for raising children, and also grow and collect the food needed which is plentiful. Cassava bread is a key staple which can be stored for up to six months. Every morning they will leave a basket of food at their husband’s home. The husband generally receives more food than they need, and will often share their food with the bachelors of the village. Traditionally the men are responsible for hunting, fishing, carpentry and boat building, though it’s increasingly common for them to seek paid work in Paramaribo, illegal gold mining and other pursuits.

Half of Aurora practices Christianity while the other half practices Winti, a ritualistic religion with African influences that draws on nature and the worship of spirits. There’s a small primary school in the village which is unfortunately under-staffed. In recent years, teachers have left Suriname for better paying jobs overseas, often in the Netherlands where there is a sizable expat community. A secondary school was built in the area in 2010. Prior to that students had to go to boarding school in Paramaribo where they were often discriminated against and called monkey children even by other black children.

Alberto took us for a walk along the nature trail at Anaula. While the maroons do use modern medicine, the health clinics along the Suriname River are chronically under-staffed and lack adequate supplies. So they also turn to medicinal remedies using local plants. When Alberto was young he was given a shotgun for hunting and he accidentally shot himself in the foot. Three of his toes on his left foot were badly mangled and the Dutch doctor suggested that they be amputated. But his family did not agree, and instead they applied Amana Pit oil from the yellow Amana fruit to his foot and eventually it healed after a few months. He even showed us the foot and his big toe looked fully healed while the two next to it looked pretty mangled but intact. 

While the maroon community in Suriname is evolving, they definitely retain a unique cultural identity that was really fascinating to see first hand. 


Bigi Pan







Beyond the rainforest, Bigi Pan located in the north-west corner of Suriname is another marquee nature destination. Reflecting back, it's the perfect image in my mind of a stereotypical bird sanctuary - swampy shallow water with sporadic patches of White Mangrove as perfect perches. There were literally many thousands of water birds flying around every part of the lagoon. It was truly a genuine National Geographic moment, and simply amazing. Some of the wildlife we saw included Scarlet Ibis, herons, storks, egrets, snail kites, parrots, anteaters and caiman. 

I stayed at the Akira Overwater Resort for two nights in the north-west corner of Suriname. We were picked up by minibus in Paramaribo and drove about four hours to Nieuw Nickerie - with the last hour being along a slow pot-holed road running through Suriname’s rice growing district. We transferred to a boat for the final hour-long ride to the resort. 

The lodge lies in the middle of the Bigi Pan lagoon which means “big lake”. It is indeed a big lake although so shallow that you can walk across the entire length of the lake (though not advised!). The one challenge during drought conditions is the difficulty getting around by boat, although you’ll get to see more birds along the mud banks. As the lodge name suggests, Akira is a series of overwater cabins in the middle of the lagoon. There is always a nice refreshing breeze and each cabin has a nice sitting deck. 

As a nature enthusiast, it’s hard for me to think of a trip to Suriname being complete without a visit to Bigi Pan. 


Sea Turtle Nesting - Galibi

Between March to July sea turtles come ashore and lay their eggs at beaches along the coast. The beaches around Galibi in the north-east corner of Suriname is the premier destination for seeing sea turtles. Getting there requires about a two hour drive from Paramaribo to Albina where you’ll transfer to a boat for the 30 minute ride to one of the lodges near Galibi. The turtles will lay their eggs in the evening, so you’ll head out at dusk towards the beach where the turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. In Suriname, there are four breeds of turtles that lay their eggs here. The most common are the Green and Leatherback turtles. Less commonly you may also see Hawksbill and Olive Ridley less frequently. 

The turtles can be surprisingly large - 3' long and weighing up to 400 lbs - yet they somehow manage to pull themselves up through the surf and to the beach head using their large flippers. After digging a deep hole, they lay somewhere close to a hundred eggs which they cover with sand before returning to the water. It’s indeed an impressive site. 

You’ll need (and want) to join a tour with a trained guide. They’ll ensure your visit does not intrude on the turtle’s nesting. It is also possible to see the sea turtles nesting closer to Paramaribo. I’ll discuss that further below. 


Near Paramaribo



























Dolphin Spotting and Sea Turtle Nesting (Braamspunt)











Taking a boat tour out towards the confluence of the Suriname and Commewijne Rivers is a popular way to see the Guiana Dolphins. The boat will also pass by mangrove lined banks with good bird spotting opportunities. I saw scarlet Ibis on my tour here. If you are visiting between March to July, you can combine this with a visit to see sea turtle nesting at Braamspunt Beach, a small beach at the mouth of the Suriname River as it enters the Atlantic Ocean. The beach here is smaller than Galibi, and is actually shrinking due to climate change. So there’s unfortunately no guarantee how much long you’ll be able to view the turtles here as a lot of beach along this section of coast has already been lost. 

We reached the beach just after sun down. We passed about a dozen large Green Sea Turtles as we walked along the beach with our Guide. Our Guide picked one turtle where we could get a close look, and watched as it dropped its eggs. I didn’t capture very good photos as I didn’t want to disturb the turtle, although they apparently go into some type of trance while laying the eggs and are pretty oblivious to their surroundings. 


Plantation Visits











Following the discovery of the new world, there was intermittent jostling over Suriname by the English, French, Spanish and Dutch. But the Dutch came to dominate Suriname following a treaty where they traded New Amsterdam (today’s New York) to the British for Suriname. Some would say the British got the better deal, though they’ve probably never visited Suriname! During the peak colonial era (mid 1800’s) there were close to a thousand plantations producing sugar, coffee, cocoa, cotton, indigo, lumber and other products. 

A few former plantations near Paramaribo have been preserved including Frederiksdorp where I stayed over for a night. Peperpot is another popular plantation destination, among others in the area. While today they are pleasant sites to visit, they have a dark past.  We heard some pretty horrific stories from our Creole Guide whose descendants also once worked on these plantations, though under very different and cruel conditions. I really enjoyed my stay here, and although some stories were harsh, I think it’s important to remember the difficult chapters in human history with education being an important deterrent to preventing repeats in the future. 


Peperpot Nature Reserve











Peperpot Nature Reserve is located on the former Peperpot Plantation which has reverted back to nature. Even though it’s very close to the city, it has lots of wildlife. I saw Squirrel and Guianan Brown Capuchin monkeys and lots of birds while walking along the nature trail. If you are only in Suriname for a few days, this would be your best option, and quite honestly you will leave here with a fairly impressive authentic Surinamese nature experience. However, I would obviously still suggest going to one of the more remote nature destinations. 

You can get to Peperpot easily from downtown Paramaribo by driving over the bridge that crosses the Suriname River. You can also catch one of the water taxis at the Platte Brug docks, and then take a taxi or bike from the other side of the river. 


Fort Nieuw Amsterdam











If you venture over to Peperpot or one of the plantations near Commewijne, it’s worthwhile stopping to visit Fort Nieuw Amsterdam and the adjoining open air museum. Not much of the Fort remains though you can still walk along the star-shape outline of the Fort’s riverside embankment. The open air museum had more to see, including old gunpowder storage buildings, a prison complex and prison hospital and various plantation era artifacts, though many of the displays were Dutch language only. There are also some old WW2 guns that the Americans installed here to protect the bauxite mining, which was crucial for making aluminum needed to manufacture airplanes.


Green Heritage Fund Sloth Sanctuary 











Green Heritage Fund Suriname runs a sanctuary where they rescue sloths, anteaters and armadillos that are often victims of urban sprawl around Paramaribo. When I visited they had both a Three-Toed and Two-Toed Sloth. They had an excellent Guide where i learned a lot about sloths and the conservation work in Suriname. It is a very worthwhile cause, and their services are increasingly needed as the city continues to grow. You have to contact them in advance to arrange for a visit.


Neotropical Butterfly Park

This butterfly park provides an opportunity to see some of Suriname's 1,500 species of butterflies and learn about their unique life cycle. It was on my list of places to visit, but unfortunately I was not able to find a time to visit. You will need to make arrangements to visit in advance. They are located about 30 minute drive from downtown Paramaribo. 


Jodensavanne National Monument

This historic site is located about an hour and a half from downtown Paramaribo. It’s a less visited site although it listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. For that reason I had wanted to visit, but frankly didn’t have time for it. From what I’ve read there’s not actually a ton to see at the site beyond some ruins and graveyard. But it is considered an important historic site for the early Jewish settlement here. If you decide to visit, I’ve heard that Marina da Costa of Tours with Flair provides an interesting guided tour of the site


Central Paramaribo















Historic Downtown







The historic downtown area is fairly small and easy to wander around by foot. What really stands out is the Dutch colonial architecture in the downtown area, now declared a UNESCO world heritage site. There’s a mix of mostly wooden and to a lesser extent brick buildings in the protected area that date back to the 17th and 18th century. The historic brick buildings are made of bricks imported from the Netherlands which were generally more expensive denoting status. After dropping off the colony’s products in the Netherlands, they would load bricks on the empty ships to attain proper ballast for the return trip. 

While most of the old buildings are truly impressive, there are a few that have fallen into disrepair, to the point they’ve had to fence off a few for safety. While awaiting hopeful restoration, they are susceptible to fire. In fact, while I was there a group of four old wooden buildings burned to the ground. Hopefully they will continue to preserve and protect these impressive old historic buildings. 


Fort Zeelander

















This fort is amoung the oldest structures in Paramaribo.  It was the original site of a small French stockade in the mid 1600’s, but soon overtaken by the British who were subsequently displaced by the Dutch in 1667. By the mid-18th century, the fort lost much of its military relevance when the large Fort Nieuw Amsterdam was built further downstream. Following the military coup in 1980, 15 critics of the military dictatorship were murdered here during the notorious December massacre. Today the fort hosts a museum showcasing pre-Columbian and maroon artifacts, and an apothecary. Most of the displays are in Dutch.

Palmtree Garden











The Presidential Palace (built in 1730) in the centre of town faces Independence Square, and just behind it lies the large Palmtree Garden (Palmentium). It’s a nice spot for a stroll. The little canal running along the northern end of the park is lined with little retail outlets serving food, coffee and souvenirs. 

 

Saint Peter and Paul Basilica











The large Saint Peter and Paul Catholic Basilica is said to be the largest wooden structure in the Western Hemisphere. I happened to be there during the Easter weekend, so I was able to visit the church during and just after mass. But at other times I noticed the church doors were often closed, so you may need to check with the Parish Hall to find out when you can visit. 


Neveh Shalom Synagogue











The larger Neveh Shalom Synagogue still holds services. It’s unique sand floor is a reminder of the time Moses led the Jews through the desert, but also helps avoid fires from falling candles. The large Keizerstraat Mosque located next door demonstrates the religious tolerance in Suriname. There is also an early Jewish Sephardic synagogue building still standing at the corner of Klipstenen & Heeren, though today it houses a computer repair company. 


Central Market and Maroon Market











I always enjoy wandering through markets, and the large Central Market in Paramaribo was one of the larger markets I’ve ever visited. The central hall where they sold fish was especially impressive. Next door is the smaller Maroon market with a focus on medicinal and ritualistic plant based products from the rainforest, often sought out by Maroons who have left the interior to live in the city. 


Riverside Walk

At the time I visited, major construction work was underway to upgrade the River Walk, and it was not accessible. But it will bring new parks and pedestrian/bike friendly trails when completed, and I’m sure will make for a nice stroll along the river. 


Songbird Competition at Independence Square

Early on Sunday morning gas you can normally see songbird competitions at Independence Square. I was in Paramaribo during the Easter weekend, so it was cancelled that Sunday. It sounded like a unique experience which might be worth checking out. 


Paramaribo Places to Stay








Paramaribo is definitely the central tourist hub for Suriname, and most trips to the interior or coastal areas typically leave and return from here. So you’ll often find yourself staying in Paramaribo between excursions.

For tourists a popular hotel choice is the complex of three resorts operated by the Torarica Group downtown along the Suriname River. My favourite was the Royal Torarica with its serene tropical oasis full of colourful birds tucked in behind the resort. I also liked the artificial pond stocked with local fish. (Note: just don’t stay here on a Friday or Saturday night as the night club across the street played loud music until 6am.) I also stayed next door at the Torarica Resort which had a nice pool and a place to hang out along the river. The breakfast buffets at both locations were great, and was included in the price of a stay when I visited. They also had a promotion when I visited where I received a $75 (USD) meal voucher when I booked online direct with the resort. 

Better value choices included Hotel Palacio in the historic area with its heritage look, and the comfortable Holland Lodge. I can definitely recommend both of these options as well. There’s certainly other options in town - as always just be sure to check reviews online. 


Final Thoughts

Reflecting on my trip to Suriname, I would definitely encourage a visit. Just keep in mind Suriname’s tourism industry is not as developed as some other ecotourism destinations such as Costa Rica. To me this was a benefit as it meant fewer travellers and less crowding. There were less than 20 visitors at each of the four primary excursions I did to Kabalebo, Anaula, Akira and Frederiksdorp. It makes it easier to get to know fellow travellers, and you never feel like you're part of the “tourist herd”. I'd also say its a great choice for seasoned travelers who have already been to some of the more mainstream destinations in the Caribbean area, and are looking for a less frequented and unique destination to visit.

If you're still questioning whether Suriname is worth a visit, I encourage you to have a look at the photos I’ve posted on Instagram (@mikeupowers). As they say, seeing is believing…


Sri Lanka


As our first stop during an extended sabbatical multi-country trip, Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon) turned out to be one of our favourite travel destinations. We've never been to a country of this size with an equivalent diversity of attractions - including remnants of former colonial centers, incredibly rich history - ancient capital cities, the cultural heart of Kandy, wide ranging wilderness areas - including safaris and elephant rescue centers, mountainous interiors and vast tea plantations. Oh and they have beaches too! As well, Sri Lanka boasts 8 UNESCO world heritage sites. To put this in perspective, Vietnam, a country over five times as large as Sri Lanka has the same number of UNESCO sites.

You can also hear about our travels to Sri Lanka in episode #667 of the Amateur Traveler Podcast, or click on the link below to listen to the podcast direct from this site:

Amateur Traveler Episode 667 - Travel to Sri Lanka



The Route

We flew into Bandaranaike International Airport just north of Colombo in early March 2019, the entry point for most international travelers. Our first stop was in Bentota Beach where we were able to relax on the beach for a couple days - a great way to adjust to the time change, considering we had flown in from Toronto.

From there we followed a clockwise track along the coast to the far south of the island, to the Dutch colonial city of Galle with its ramparts and fortifications. We continued along the southern coast to Yala National Park where we stayed in "glamping" accommodations and ventured into the Park on safari. Then it was a climb up the mountains to Hortons Plain, and through the tea plantations. Continuing north we entered the cultural triangle starting in Kandy, and continuing on to Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura.  Finally we returned back along the coast to Colombo where we enjoyed the hospitality at the English colonial Galle Face Hotel.

Because we were on an extended sabbatical trip, we were able to move at a leisurely pace, and spent just over two weeks in Sri Lanka. And the drive time was actually quite reasonable. Excluding side trips, our total drive time between major destinations was only 28 hours over this two week period - or an average of about 2 hours per day. I would recommend trying to devote two weeks for Sri Lanka, although you can certainly pack in many of the highlights in a condensed week long trip.





Highlights

We originally planned to hit the beach as our first stop to help get over the jet lag after the long trip from Toronto. And it was nice to relax on the sand and not feel any pressure to visit the sites, although we were keen to do so. We were also looking forward to some warm weather after departing Toronto in about -10C weather. We didn't realize though that our entry to a climate that was consistently over +30C would be a bit too much of a good thing. So having the cooling ocean breeze nearby was pleasant to say the least.

                Traditional Sri Lankan Oruwa fishing boat near Bentota Beach

                Pool and gardens at the Taru Villas - Rock Villa

While the primary focus of a stay along the south western beaches is for rest and relaxation, there are a few other worthy diversions along the coast. During our drive from Bentota Beach to Galle, we made a few stops - Ariyapala Mask Museum, a family run gemstone operation and Tsunami Memorials. 

The Ariyapala Mask Museum is a quick stop off the highway where you can take short guided tour of and watch the craftsmen at work making the masks, and pick up a souvenir if inclined. 

                Ariyapala Masks Museum in Ambalangoda (our souvenir inset)

Sri Lanka is well known for its gemstones and in spite of its relative size is one of the largest producers in the World, mining of 50 varieties of gemstones. We stopped at a small family run operation Meetiyagoda Moonstone Mine to have a look at the small scale mining operation and their jewelry. The operation consisted of a 30-40 foot cave where they dug short tunnels removing buckets of soil in hot humid caves, brought it to the surface, and then used a sieve to find the gemstones. 

                Mining gem stones at Meetiyagoda Moonstone Mine

We stopped at two Tsunami Memorials near Peraliya commemorating the tragic loss of live during the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami. Peraliya was devastated by the tsunami, and the location where a train was lifted off the tracks with 1,500 people perishing - the World's worst ever train disaster.

                Peraliya Tsunami Memorial

We were able to visit 7 of Sri Lanka's 8 UNESCO world heritage sites, with our first stop being the historical Dutch colonial town of Galle. It was actually originally a Portuguese outpost before the Dutch took it over in 1638. Galle is a popular tourist destination today, with the major draw being the historic walled section of the town on a peninsula jutting out into the Indian Ocean. We joined the crowds for a view of the sundown along the ramparts.

                The ramparts of Galle at Sundown

Galle has a variety of guest houses, restaurants and shopping - particularly known for gemstone jewelers. We also came across Embark in Galle, a chain of about a dozen retail stores in Sri Lanka whose profits support charitable work supporting the country's street dogs. And they certainly could use the help with an estimated half million street dogs wandering the country. While travelling across the country we stopped frequently to give out dog food to the ones we came across.

                Embark's Galle retail store in support of street dogs

Enroute to our next destination, Yala National Park, we passed through the somewhat strange town of Hambantota. After traveling along a small two lane road we suddenly entered a broad four lane highway seemingly in the middle of no where - with virtually no traffic. With funding primarily from the Chinese, this area not only had a brand new highway, but a large seaport, international airport, conference center and a new hospital. Oddly though, the area seemed almost deserted.

In fact, the international airport built at a cost of $200M opened in 2013 with just two daily scheduled flights, which has now dropped to none. There are claims that 300 soldiers and police were brought in to keep the elephants from entering the airfield as the airport. They have used the hangers for storing rice, and there is talk of converting the airport to a pilot training facility and storage area for mothballed aircraft - certainly not the original plans...

I only found out after our passing through this area that we could have actually visited the Airport as a tourist - not your typical sight-seeing tour, but would have liked to check it out. Wade Shepard has written an interesting piece in Forbes about the "World's Emptiest International Airport".

As we drove past the Convention Center, there was absolutely nothing going on, and apparently it too sits empty most of the time. Equally, the seaport has been a white elephant. The unfortunate reality is the development was approved as a vanity project by former Sri Lankan President Mahinda Rajapaksa who grew up in Hambantota. Burdened with heavy debt that the government could not pay back, Sri Lanka has turned the Port over to the Chinese for a 99 year lease. Seemingly the Airport is also now on the block with India, fearful of the growing Chinese influence, is seeking to secure the airport in a long term lease.

                Highway and International Airport at Hambantota

Sri Lanka was not top of mind as a safari destination, so we were intrigued when we learned about the wildlife at Yala National Park. Having never been on safari, we thought we may as well give it a try, admittedly having low expectations. And we were happy we did, our safari excursions here turned out to be a highlight of the trip.

We stayed at a small family run lodge just outside the park - Camp Leopard Safari. Staying in a semi-luxurious "glamping" accommodation, the safari started a little early than expected with a troop of monkeys clamoring across our roof top at about 3am.

We went on 3 half day safaris to Yala National Park and were never bored. Just when we thought we'd seen everything, something new would pop up behind a bush, tree or rock. Although we don't have great photos to support all our sightings, we did see some of the more noteworthy animals in the Park - including a leopard sunning itself on the rocks, elephants, Water Buffalo and perhaps rarest of all the Sri Lankan Sloth Bear. We also saw lots of birds and waterfowl, including Hornbills, Kingfishers, Eagles & Hawks and the Sri Lankan national bird - the colorful Junglefowl.  In total, we counted over 70 wildlife sightings - thanks in large part to the sharp eyes of our guide Noyel.

                Wildlife in Yala National Park - Grey Langur and Mongoose

There are three entrances to the Park - Palatupane (southern), Katharagama (middle) and Galge (northern). The southern entrance is the most popular given its location closest to the ocean and near many of the resorts - however it is also the busiest. While researching I had heard the vehicles lining up to enter the park in peak season could be excessive. We went in via the middle gate on two of our safaris and both times there were no mare than a half dozen vehicles. I would suggest this might be the better choice to steer clear of the competing vehicles.

The scenery around Yala was varied and picturesque and was worth the price of admission even before all the wildlife sightings. The large water tanks, or reservoirs, helps sustain the varied wildlife in this semi-arid area. The morning sun against the rock outcroppings was also a popular area for leopard sightings.

                Scenery in Yala National Park

From Yala, we headed north into the mountainous interior through vast tea plantations enroute to Hortons Plain, our second UNESCO world heritage site. We stayed at Hill Safari Eco Lodge just outside the Park with an incredible view from a steep mountainside overlooking tea plantations below (contrary to the lodge's name, don't expect to see elephants or leopards up here!). Hortons Plain is a great destination for hikers, having a popular loop route over a few miles that passes through montane grassland and lush montane cloud forest before reaching the highlight - World's End - a vantage point at the top of a vertical cliff almost a kilometer high. The trail continues along a small stream and past a waterfall and small ponds before reaching the dusty museum at the trail head. Keep an eye out for Sambar Deer - we also saw a Giant Squirrel foraging in the trees.

Its best to arrive at the trailhead around 8am so you have time to reach World's End before the clouds start to roll in obstructing the view.

                Views from Hill Safari Eco Lodge and Horton Plains World's End

                Waterfall at Hortons Plain

The highlands provide the perfect conditions for Sri Lanka's extensive network of tea plantations. We stopped into the historic Dambethenna Tea Factory which was purchased by Thomas Lipton in the late 1800's. He bought up a number of plantations in the central highlands after a coffee blight devastated the coffee plantations of the time, and converted them to growing tea. We toured the tea factory still in operation today using equipment that is over a hundred years old.

                Dambethenna Tea Factory and Plantation

The drive through the tea plantations continue through the British colonial hill town of Nuwara Eliya which many also use as a base to explore Hortons Plain. We did stop in at The Grand Hotel for lunch and a stroll through the town and market before heading on to Kandy, the cultural heart of Sri Lanka located in the center of the country.

Kandy is a picturesque town centered on a small lake where the big draw for tourists and Sri Lankans alike is the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa) which holds a tooth fragment of the Buddha. While you can't see the actual tooth, you can stand in line for a chance to see the small gold casket shaped stupa where it is held. If you follow the walkway that leads behind the tooth relic chamber, you'll reach a large hall with a series of depictions and explanations (in English) showing the lengthy history of the tooth relic as it passed through various Kings and holy men who hid and relocated the tooth a number of times across the centuries.

In July/August, the 10 day Festival of the Tooth is held. They used to parade the tooth relic through the town on an elephant, but had to replace the real tooth with a replica. If you miss the Festival, you can still see the stuffed remains of Raja, one of the more famous elephants who carried the tooth during the Festival for about 50 years.

               Kandy

                Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, Kandy

We took in the cultural dance at the Kandyan Art Association building along the lake next to the temple complex. The troupe puts on an entertaining, acrobatic performance, capping it off with fire breathing and fire walk towards the end.

                Cultural Dance at Kandyan Art Association

Just a little to the west of Kandy we visited the Pinnalanda Elephant Orphanage. The elephants here are primarily free roaming in a large zoo like enclosure, and appeared to be in good health. A few of the younger elephants were chained as a safety precaution. We did notice some smaller family run elephant riding outfits along the road to Pinnalanda. The ones we passed seemed to have very small enclosures for the elephants, and some were chained as well. Not ideal, and if you ride one of these elephants, just be aware that the owners often use negative reinforcement to train the elephants.

On the return to Kandy we also stopped in at the Royal Botanical Gardens. While the gardens are extensive, it was the flying foxes, or large fruit bat that really caught our attention. There were literally thousands of flying foxes passing over the park in the late afternoon.

                Pinnalanda Elephant Orphanage, Flying Foxes at the Royal Botanical Garden

There have to be hundreds of small temples and historical sights scattered around Sri Lanka. You'll never have a chance to see them all, but it can be fun to stop at a few relatively lesser known sites as you never know what you'll find. One of the more interesting ones we stumbled across just north of Kandy is the Aluviharaya Rock Cave Temple. Through twists and turns, you'll pass through narrow passageways and around large rocky outcroppings, and into narrow caves. While the Buddhist temples we visited were typically tranquil and peaceful, this temple had a different theme all together. It held many gruesome paintings of sinners being punished in hell. It was a bit much for us, although the large group of young innocent school children that passed through seemed relatively unphased.

                Aluviharaya Rock Cave Temple

Kandy is the southern most point of an area called the Cultural Triangle, which includes Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura as the other two anchors. This area contains Sri Lanka's remaining five UNESCO world heritage sites - Kandy, Dambulla Royal Cave Temple, Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura.

As we headed north away from Kandy, our first stop was the Dambulla Royal Cave Temple. This ancient monastery dates back to the 2nd Century BC. It will take about 30 minutes to hike up the stairs leading to the entrance. You'll enter a large rock ledge that will take you to the cave temple. Just be aware that as with all Buddhist religious sites, you will need to remove your hat and shoes on entry. But you will be allowed to wear socks if you have any, an important consideration on the sun drenched rocks. So unless you want to join the other tourists on a dance across the rocky ledge, I'd highly advise bringing a pair of socks!

Either way, the walk (or dance) to the cave temple makes it worthwhile. The caves are adorned with colourful intricate religious paintings, some of which UNESCO staff could be seen repairing. You'll also find over 100 Buddha statues as well.

                Dambulla Royal Cave Temple

In our opinion, Sigiriya is not to be missed on a trip to Sri Lanka. This ancient rock fortress dates back to the 5th century, although there are differing opinions on the history of the site. A common belief is that King Kashyapa moved the capital here after murdering his father. He was the son of a lesser Queen, and was fearful that the rightful King and his half brother Moggallana would invade and take revenge. So he built his fortress on Sigiriya with its 200 meter high near vertical cliffs. Eventually his half brother did return and defeat him in battle, and the short lived capital was returned to Anuradhapura. Sigirya became a monastery for the next thousand years before being abandoned.

Keep in mind there is some climbing involved to get to the summit - about 1,200 stairs. Try to get an early start so you can hike in the shade while climbing up the steepest portion along the cliff face. You will enter through the western entrance through the water gardens, leading through the boulder gardens before reaching the cliff face. Part way up the cliff face you'll have a chance to view well preserved ancient frescoes followed by the Mirror Wall. The Mirror Wall is covered in highly polished white plaster and contains graffiti from bygone travelers, some over a thousand years old.

                Sigiriya showing entrance via Water Gardens and Rock Garden

A little more than half way up you'll reach the Lion's Paws Terrace named for the two gigantic Lion's Paws which is all that remains of a full sized Lion that guarded the final ascent to the summit. On the summit you'll see the remains of the Royal Palace, a larger water tank and incredible views in all directions.

                Final ascent through the Lions Paws to summit

                Sigiriya summit

There are plenty of places to stay near Sigiriya, but I would highly recommend staying at the Heritance Kandalama which is about a 20 minute drive away. This hotel is like no other we've stayed at in our years of travel. The hotel is seamlessly integrated with the local setting and natural environment.

On arriving, your first view is actually that of a giant green wall of vegetation encircling the hotel. Our driver Chanaka, who seemed to know everyone wherever we visited, introduced us to the manager on duty. Expecting the simplest room based on the rate we payed, we were pleasantly surprised to be led by the manager to a spacious suite overlooking the Kandalama Reservoir. Although he would not admit it, we are sure it was Chanaka's natural charms that got us the upgrade. Chanaka was also pleased as this was his favourite hotel to visit. In Sri Lanka, many hotels have a separate areas in or near the hotel for the drivers to stay, and he especially enjoyed the hiking he could do near the hotel.

We wandered along the entire length of the hotel checking out the views of the surrounding forest and mountains, with the Kandalama Reservoir below. Geoffrey Bawa, the well known architect who designed the hotel, had taken full advantage of the natural setting. I especially liked the entrance to the main lounge area via a tunnel that constantly had a cool breeze. Sections of the hotel's walkways wound around large boulders. And everywhere, including the rooftop dining area were surrounded by greenery and wildlife. One morning, I saw monkeys, a Hornbill and a Giant Squirrel outside our room window.

                Heritance Kandalama Hotel near Sigiriya

                Eternity Pool and view over Kandalama Reservoir

                Window wildlife at the Heritance Kandalama

On the entrance to the hotel, we saw a large concrete foot on the top of a rocky hill. Our driver claimed that Geoffrey Bawa was flying around in a helicopter seeking a spot to build the hotel, and when he came across the site at Kandalama he dropped his boot out of the helicopter to mark the spot. Great story, although on closer inspection the foot marks the spot of the Kandalama Millennium time capsule place there in the year 2000, to be opened in 2999.

                                                    Kandalama Millennium Time Capsule

On separate days we visited the nearby historic former capitals of Sri Lanka - Polonnawura and Anuradhapura. Polonnaruwa was the capital starting in about 10th century and the ruins here are younger and generally in better condition than the older capital of Anuradhapura.

We hired a guide and started at the archaeological museum in Polonnaruwa to get an overview of the history and site. The remains of the Royal Palace give hints of what must once have been a massive 7 floor building with 50 rooms. The Sacred Quadrangle nearby has a series of impressive ruins, including the Vatadage which once housed the Buddha's tooth relic.

                The Royal Palaca and King's Chamber at Polonnaruwa

                Polonnaruwa Vatadage

We happened upon the Gal Potha, a large stone slab with a former King's inscriptions. It is about 27' long by 5' wide - weighing 15 tons, and was carried about 100 kilometers to its current location 800 years ago. Good thing they had help from some elephants!

                The Gal Potha stone slab inscription and King Parakramabahu Statue

At Anuradhapura, we took a different approach and explored the ruins by bicycle as they tended to be a little more spread out. There are a number of large stuppas to visit, including the Ruwanwelisaya Dagoba containing relics and a sacred site for many Buddhists around the world.

                Stuppas in Anuradhapura

While Colombo typically doesn't get rave reviews from the Guidebooks, we found there was enough to keep our attention for a couple days. We stayed at the historic Galle Face Hotel which certainly made the time easier to pass. While it might be considered expensive by Sri Lankan standards, we thought it was a relative bargain compared to prices back home in Canada.

                The Galle Face Hotel, Colombo

Its a great place to spend  the evening watching the sun go down, and they even have a little flag lowering ceremony with a Sri Lankan bag piper in kilts - drawing inspiration from the hotel's English colonial past. There is an air of nostalgia as you wander through the Verandah and Travelers Bar that has hosted many famous people over the years - including a lot of writers - Mark Twain, Arthur C Clarke, George Bernard Shaw, DH Lawrence, Rudyard Kipling and Hemingway to name few. The hotel even has its own resident historian and museum.

                Sundown at the Galle Face over the Indian Ocean

There are a few sights in and around Colombo depending on your likes. We had the most fun wandering through the Pettah Market in central Colombo. Its a crazy hectic place catering to locals. The area is a few city blocks wide and is packed full of thousands of vendors, both along the street, and tucked in narrow passageways that lead through the surrounding buildings. Vendors were tucked into every conceivable corner of space, we even saw two industrious Sri Lankans running a cell phone repair shop underneath a narrow stairwell. Full of inexpensive goods - you know its probably too good a deal when the packaging reads "Apple Original Product". There is street food for the adventurous - although we passed when we saw workers delivering large blocks of ice to the food vendors for refrigeration.

                Pettah Market, Colombo

While in Colombo, its your chance to try McDonald's "Chicken Big Mac", and I must say it was delicious! We also had a chance to try the local Sri Lankan "hoppers" made out rice flour either shaped as a bowl, or in spaghetti like strands.

                                                    McDonald's Chicken Big Mac

One final thought - as you plan your trip we would suggest hiring a driver. Renting might be an option, although information on rental options seemed to be scarce... Driving can be a little hectic especially on the narrower two lane roads. Thankfully our driver was quite patient and didn't try to overtake vehicles around blind corners as we witnessed far too regularly. We found our driver through Tripadvisor, and can recommend Aerizo Tours - request Chanaka if available.

                Confused? Hire a driver!

Postscript:
It was just following our trip that the devastating Easter bombings rocked the country, and was a set back for the country still healing from its long civil war. This may cause concerns over safety, and may have you questioning whether to visit. I can only say that while traveling in Sri Lanka, we personally felt very safe, wandering on our own in cities and towns, and never feeling threatened in any way. No question, the Sri Lankan people are extremely friendly and hospitable. We hope you will consider visiting Sri Lanka. We met many locals who rely on the tourism industry, and it would be a shame for them the remain idle too long.